Preparing Soundboard (text shown in dark red denotes steps that were not part of the YAM workshop)
1. Remove back/sides from the mold. Use sanding boards to sand edges where soundboard will join.
2. Lay out soundboard (2 pcs.) on clamping table, spaced 3/8" apart. Tape together along gap using masking tape.
3. Place back/sides upside down onto soundboard. Trace shape onto soundboard.
4. Leaving about a 1/8" margin, cut out shape with a coping saw (no need to clamp soundboard).
5. Lay fretboard on the soundboard to mark the end. Cut off excess length of soundboard.
6. Clamp/glue fretboard to the soundboard (on side opposite the masking tape). Use a small angled piece of wood to scrape out excess glue in corners where fretboard meets soundboard. Allow 45 minutes to dry.
7. Locate circle soundhole centers. (Trace out custom sound holes with carbon paper or template. Sound hole designs should be mirror images from center of fretboard).
8. Use a drill and Forstner bit to cut circle soundholes. (Drill starter holes and use coping saw to cut out irregular or custom shaped sound holes). File and sand sound hole edges.
9. Scrape and sand (with 120-grit paper) the bottom side of soundboard to prepare for joint to sides.

10. Cut 1/8 thick x 1/2 wide strips of scrap spruce for soundboard bracing. Bevel top edges of braces with small block plane and sand all surfaces.
11. Clamp/glue braces to soundboard. Allow 45 minutes to dry.

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Final Construction
1. Place all of the pieces together in mold.

2. Mark point for screw in head with a scribe (just over the start of the soundboard).
3. Drill large hole (just deep enough to countersink the screw head) with a 3/8" bit at an angle.
4. Drill a starter hole with a screw-sink bit. Screw in a "10 x 2" screw, and then remove it.
5. Apply glue bead to edge of sides and endblocks. Position soundboard and replace head screw.
6. Clamp down construction and allow 45 minutes for glue to dry.
7. Tap wooden peg into head screw hole using a fretting hammer.

Rough Shaping
1. Cut off end corners of body with coping saw.
2. Chisel off side overhang using a 1/2 inch chisel. Be cautious of reverse grain.
3. Sand edges with 80-grit paper, then use 120-grit paper all over.
4. Flip body over and repeat above three steps.
5. Use scraper to scrape out glue in corners where fretboard meets soundboard.

6. Trim off wooden peg in head screw hole using sandpaper.

Fretboard (Large Hourglass Instrument)
1. Check fretboard for flatness – sand if necessary.
2. Mark nut, frets, and bridge using a fret ruler and dry point needle.
3. Use a dovetail saw and tri-square to cut nut slot (around 3/16" wide). Chisel out with 1/8" chisel.
4. File nut slot smooth with needle files.
5. Use a dovetail saw and tri-square to cut fret slots.
6. Measure to position fret dots in center of frets. Mark with scriber.
7. Drill fret dot holes with manual drill (match bit size to dot diameter). Leave room for dot to stick up.
8. Glue dots with 2-part epoxy glue and hammer down with fretting hammer.
9. Sand off excess dot material (and entire fretboard) with 220-grit paper, then 320-grit, and then 400-grit.
10. Bend fret wire into a gentle curve using fret pliers, and cut lengths.
11. Tap in fret wires with fretting hammer from the ends to the middle (don’t tap hard in the middle). Don’t hammer the fret flat – leave a slight curve, and don’t hammer the first fret too deep.
12. File off the wire overhang by running a mill file at a slight angle along each side of the fretboard.
13. Use steel wool to smooth corners of frets.

 

Building Outline: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | SPiCYAM Class Syllabus |

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