J.C. Rockwell | Mountain Dulcimer Building Workshops

Building a Mountain Dulcimer

Building Outline: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | SPiCYAM Class Syllabus |

Adding Back to the Sides/Endblock Assembly in Mold

Jeff flips the clamped assembly and sands top edges of his instrument.

1. Clamp a large sanding board (use highest quality Baltic Birch plywood) with medium-grit sandpaper to the clamping table. Sand bottom edges of sides and endblocks by turning mold over and making long strokes back and forth against the sanding board. For best consistency, avoid sliding beyond the ends of the sanding board.

Jerry traces the mold shape onto the instrument back
2. Trace the shape of the sides onto the back, providing an eighth-inch allowance. (Above, Jerry is pencilling the outline of a SPiCYAM dulcimer onto its one-piece back).

A SPiCYAM builder demonstrates the correct use of the coping saw while waiting for glue joints to dry.

3. Along a line 1/8" outside the tracing (the 1/8-inch margin is left for overhang) cut out the shape with a coping saw. It is not necessary to clamp the back in place while cutting. Cut in a direction that avoids tearing up the grain. (SPiCYAM builders had some time to practice making controlled cuts in the scrap pieces with their coping saws while they waited for the endblock/side glue joints to dry. The correct way to cut is shown above).

4. For cutting ends, use a jeweler’s saw (with fine blade) to avoid splintering the grain.
5. Use a scraper blade and sanding block to smooth out the top and bottom of the back.
6. Cut out about four braces out of 1/2 inch square pine or spruce strips. Leave about 1/2 inch of space on ends (braces should not touch sides when glued.
7. Clamp/glue braces to back (may need some deep-throated clamps). Allow 45 minutes to dry.

8. Glue/clamp back to sides. Allow 45 minutes to dry.

Building Outline: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | SPiCYAM Class Syllabus |